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ক্লাইন বলেন, মূল গলদটা হচ্ছে গ্লোবাল ট্রেড এগ্রিমেন্টে, যেটি শুরু হয়েছিল নাফটার মাধ্যমে ১৯৯৪ সালে। পঞ্চাশ কিংবা ষাটের দশকে ফিরে তাকান, তখন কিন্তু আমেরিকা নিজেই পোশাক তৈরি করত। নব্বই দশকেও এর পরিমাণ ছিল ৫০ শতাংশ। কিন্তু এখন এটি ২ শতাংশে এসে ঠেকেছে
২৪ এপ্রিল সাভারের রানা প্লাজায় যে মর্মন্তুদ ঘটনার অবতারণা হয়েছে, তার শোক এখনো কাটিয়ে উঠতে পারেনি দেশ। কেবল বাংলাদেশ নয়; এ শোকাবহ ঘটনা স্পর্শ করেছে পুরো বিশ্বকেই। এ ঘটনায় নিহত হয়েছে পাঁচ শতাধিক। গত বছর নভেম্বরে তাজরীন ফ্যাশনসে আরেকটি মর্মান্তিক ঘটনা ঘটে। ভয়াবহ অগ্নিকাণ্ডে সেখানে ঝরে পড়ে ১১২টি প্রাণ। ‘নিউইয়র্ক ম্যাগাজিন’ ও ‘সিড’ ম্যাগাজিনের প্রাক্তন সম্পাদক এলিজাবেথ ক্লাইন এসব কারখানায় দুর্ঘটনার জন্য দায়ী করছেন ফাস্ট ফ্যাশন বা সস্তা ফ্যাশনের জনপ্রিয়তাকে। এ ফাস্ট ফ্যাশন ইউরোপ-আমেরিকায় বাজারজাত করছে এইচঅ্যান্ডএম, জারা, ইস্পিরিট, লি, নাইকি, জেসি পেনি ও ওয়ালমার্টের মতো বড় বড় প্রতিষ্ঠান। একটা সময় ক্লাইন অবশ্য নিজেও এ ফাস্ট ফ্যাশনের ভোক্তা ছিলেন।
ক্লাইন মনে করেন, সাভার ট্র্যাজেডি আমাদের নতুন এক ভাবনার সামনে দাঁড় করিয়ে দিয়েছে। কাপড় ব্যবহার করার পর শ্রমিকদের প্রতি কীভাবে আরো দায়িত্বশীল হওয়া যায়— সেটিই বুঝিয়েছে এ ট্র্যাজেডি। আমি মনে করি এ ঘটনা একটি ‘টার্নিং পয়েন্ট’। এছাড়া ট্র্যাজেডির পরই আকস্মিকভাবে কিছু ব্র্যান্ড প্রতিষ্ঠানের সেখান থেকে ব্যবসা গুটিয়ে নেয়ার ঘটনা খারাপ হিসেবেই দেখি আমি।
ক্লাইন ‘ওভারড্রেসড: দ্য শকিংলি হাই কস্ট অব চিপ ফ্যাশন’ নামে একটি গবেষণাধর্মী বই লিখেছেন। বইয়ের জন্য তিনি ঘুরে বেড়িয়েছেন চীন ও বাংলাদেশের অনেক গার্মেন্ট ফ্যাক্টরিতে। ক্লাইন প্রশ্ন রেখেছেন, কেন নামিদামি ব্র্যান্ডগুলো বাংলাদেশে ব্যবসা করতে আগ্রহী? খুব সোজা উত্তর— সস্তা শ্রম। চীনে শ্রমিক ব্যয় বাংলাদেশের তুলনায় বেশি। চীনে শ্রমিকদের বেতন ক্রমেই বাড়ছে, কিন্তু বাংলাদেশে সেটি হচ্ছে না। ক্রেতারা চায়, চীন একটা সময় যেটা করেছে, সেটা বাংলাদেশও করবে। কিন্তু বাংলাদেশ সেটা করতে পারে না। বাংলাদেশের রয়েছে প্রায় চার হাজার গার্মেন্ট ফ্যাক্টরি, সেখানে চীনে প্রায় ৪০ হাজার। একজন চীনা শ্রমিকের বেতন গড়ে ২০০ মার্কিন ডলারের কাছাকাছি আর বাংলাদেশী শ্রমিক পান মাত্র ৩৭ মার্কিন ডলার। ক্লাইন বলেন, মূল গলদটা হচ্ছে গ্লোবাল ট্রেড এগ্রিমেন্টে, যেটি শুরু হয়েছিল নাফটার মাধ্যমে ১৯৯৪ সালে। পঞ্চাশ কিংবা ষাটের দশকে ফিরে তাকান, তখন কিন্তু আমেরিকা নিজেই পোশাক তৈরি করত। নব্বই দশকেও এর পরিমাণ ছিল ৫০ শতাংশ। কিন্তু এখন এটি ২ শতাংশে এসে ঠেকেছে।
গার্মেন্ট খাতের ওপর নির্ভর করে হূষ্টপুষ্ট হচ্ছে বাংলাদেশের অর্থনীতি। কথা হলো, যাদের শ্রমের বিনিময়ে এ শিল্পটা দাঁড়িয়ে আছে, তারা কতটুকু মূল্যায়িত হচ্ছেন?

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mt20180609


by- yaoxuemei yaoxuemei

by- chenlixiang
2018.9.28chenlixiang

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2018.9.28chenlixiang

by- chenlixiang
2018.9.28chenlixiang

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2018.9.28chenlixiang

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